Since the Middle Ages, the area which
stretches along the southern bank of the River Sil, from Castro Caldelas to
Ourense, has been known in Galician as Rivoira Sacrata and in Spanish as
Ribeira Sacra (the Sacred Bank) because of the monasteries sited there.
You can visit them by
leaving Ourense on the Ponferrada road, admiring the spectacular countryside
of the Gorge of the Sil on the way. The oldest - dating from the sixth
century - is to be found in Esgos, hewn out of the rocks and thus named San
Pedro de Rocas. Next comes the Xunqueira de Espadañedo, a Romanesque
building which has seen various additions, and further on lies the
Monasterio de Montederramo, built in the sixteenth century in the herreriano
style.
After visiting Castro Caldelas and its castle, the journey continues on
towards the Sil to take in the ruins of the Monasterio de San Paio de
Abeleda. Walking along the banks of the river, we discover, tucked away in a
picturesque spot, the Monasterio de Santa Cristiña de Ribas de Sil, whose
church is a perfect replica of the Romanesque architecture of Santiago de
Compostela. We finish off at the grandest and best-conserved of all, the
Monasterio de San Estevo de Ribas de Sil, a medley of all architectural
styles.
Here, a scenic road leads down by the
Gorge of the Sil to meet up with the River Miño - the main river in Galicia
- and the Ribeira Sacra at Os Peares, the site of the amazing Romanesque
church-fortress of Portomarín, the intricately adorned facade of San Estevo
de Ribas de Miño and some small churches, such as the one at Cova, which
were rescued from the waters of the reservoir. The countryside from here all
the way back to Ourense is beautiful.