Galicia is divided into nearly 3,800 parishes, areas typical of Galicia and
which have their origins in the Swabian system of administration. Every parish
has its own fiesta or fiestas, mostly held in the summer, and it is easy to
imagine just how many celebrations are held all over the region. As well as
these popular fiestas, there are also countless romerías (religious processions
to a holy shrine) and religious and secular festivities, which have derived from
the rich and varied traditions and stories of Galician folklore.
We can list a few, just by way of example, which celebrate Spring, the bonfires
of San Juan, the Summer Solstice or the Magosto, when the first chestnuts are
roasted and the first wines tasted.
If we had to choose a well-known romería from each province, perhaps the
following would figure: the Milagros de Amil in Moraña (Pontevedra), the Virxe
da Barca in Muxía (La Coruña), the Xira de la Santa Cruz in Ribadeo (Lugo) and
the battle between the Moors and the Christians in A Saínza (Ourense). The
floral carpets of the Corpus in Ponteareas, which can also be seen in Ares and
Gondomar, are another story in themselves.
Among the most original fiestas, unique to Galicia, are the curros, or
Rapa das Bestas (The Capture of the Beasts), an
extension of the work of the stockbreeders, who bred wild horses in the
mountains. Some twenty curros are held between May and August in various places
in the provinces of Lugo, La Coruña and Pontevedra. Galicia is also renowned for
the spectacular nature of its carnivals, particularly those in Laza (Verín) and
Xinzo de Limia.
Gastronomic fairs also deserve their own section, beginning with the Cocido Fair
in Lalín, and following on, in chronological order, with a whole host of other
fairs: a Cheese Fair in Arzúa, Eel in Tui, Lamprey in Arbo, Pepper Fairs in
Arnoia and Padrón, Salmon in A Estrada, Bica (a type of cake) in Trives, Seafood
in O Grove, etc. and ending in December with a Capon Fair in Vilalba.
The four provincial archaeological museums, located in
the capitals of the provinces of Galicia and particularly the one in
Pontevedra, house large exhibitions of surprisingly rich, varied and
rare Galician archaeology.
The most original pieces are those
belonging to the culture of the castros, (Iron Age settlements) which
have bequeathed us an extremely rich collection of jewels and gold
objects. There are other fine museums to visit as well, such as the Fine
Art Gallery in La Coruña, the municipal Castrelos Museum in Vigo or the
Museo do Pobo Galego (Museum of the People of Galicia) in Santiago, not
to mention almost a hundred other small, official museums spread
throughout Galicia. To call them ‘small’, however, may seem strange when
on visiting them, as some turn out to be quite the opposite, such as the
Museum of Religious Art in the Cathedral of Mondoñedo, the museum in the
Monasterio de Oseira, the Tui Cathedral Museum or the Tapestry Museum to
be found in Santiago Cathedral.
As well as prehistoric art, with the
many dolmens and cave paintings worthy of mention, there are also some
spectacular Roman monuments to be seen in Galicia, including the walls of
Lugo, the Torre de Hercules or the Roman bridge in Ourense. Some outstanding
examples have survived from the Swabian and Visigothic periods with the
finest to be found in Celanova and in Santa Comba de Bande. But it is the
Romanesque art of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, represented by the
five hundred religious buildings of this style, and which crop up in every
corner of Galicia, where the Galician genius for construction comes to the
fore.
It is followed in importance by the Baroque, represented
in complex facades, in the graceful towers and in their breathtaking
altarpieces. Among these the Obradoiro facade, which conceals the original,
early-Romanesque facade, is an obvious example. As for the countless
altarpieces, perhaps the best example is to be found at San Martín Pinario
in Santiago, or perhaps the one in the church of the Monasterio de Celanova,
or even Lugo Cathedral... The truth is, we don’t know which one to choose.
These artistic Galician traditions are
still evident in the three major art forms. There is enough evidence if you
visit the church of Santa Cruz de Carballiño by Antonio Palacios, the many
sculptures of Asorey or the Bienales de Pintura (biennial art exhibitions)
in Pontevedra. Among the minor arts, Sargadelos ceramics, lacemaking in
Camariñas, the silver work and jet jewellery of Santiago are perhaps the
best known.
The large monasteries of Galicia are
other monuments which catch the eye. The majority of them date back to the
birth of monasticism in the seventh century, but it wasn’t until the
eleventh and twelfth centuries that they were built with great splendour,
coinciding with the very peak of Galician culture. Nevertheless, the
magnificent buildings which survive today were rebuilt or added to in the
Renaissance and Baroque periods.
Examples of these sumptuous constructions, which are almost always to be
found in idyllic, isolated spots, include the monasteries of Samos, on the
Way of St. James, Oseira, one of the few still to retain its Romanesque
church, Sobrado, overlooking sweeping countryside, and Oía, right on the
coast. Some of them have been modernised in recent years and are now inns.
Others lie half-abandoned among verdant woods, such as those in Caaveiro,
Acebeiro or in Monfero. The Monasterio de Armenteira retains a superb
Romanesque facade with a huge rose window.
THE
FIVE CATHEDRALS
The five cathedrals of Galicia all
have something in common; the fusion of styles throughout the centuries. The
Romanesque dominates in all of them, but additions were made afterwards, as
can be seen in the Cathedral of Santiago. Gothic elements are the highlight
of the cathedrals in Tui and Mondoñedo, the latter being crowned by three
Baroque towers. The most significant additions are to be seen at Ourense
with its Neoclassical ambulatory and Renaissance dome. The Neoclassical
façade of Lugo Cathedral gives no indication whatsoever of the magnificent
Romanesque interior and the Gothic elements of the nave.
When visiting Galicia the eye is drawn
towards three types of construction typical of the region: the hórreos (raised
granaries), cruceiros (stone crosses) and the pazos (manor-houses). An
hórreo is a type of granary which is mainly used to ripen, dry and store
maize.
In some places they are known as cabazos or cabaceiros and are decorated on
the vertex of the roof with a cross, cone or a pyramid, a symbol of
fertility. Cruceiros - stone crosses erected as a sign of devotion, a
mournful reminder or simply to mark a route - began to appear at the end of
the fourteenth century and were still being built until very recently. The
cruceiro at Melide is considered to be the oldest and the one at Hío the
most spectacular.
Pazos are
manor-houses built in the country, in the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, as ancestral or seasonal homes for the old noble families and are
noted, apart from their size, for the noble coats of arms adorning them,
their towers, terraces and chapels and the luxuriant gardens surrounding
them.