Here, the Camino de Santiago (Way
of St. James) leaves the mountains behind, if this is ever possible in
Galicia. This section runs, in the main, through Vega del Sarria and the
Miño valley and the pilgrim again passes through a disorientating
succession of villages. The oak and chestnut trees give way to farmland
and the first conifer plantations.
The new Portomarín lies halfway
along this route. The old one has been submerged beneath the waters of
the Belesar reservoir since 1962. Prior to the flooding, the Way crossed
the River Miño by an old stone bridge which is still visible during
droughts. The twelfth-century Iglesia de San Nicolás, moved stone by
stone from its previous site, is the highlight of the new village.
Another significant landmark on
the Way is the Monasterio de Vilar de Donas, a Romanesque building and
National Monument, just off the traditional route. The Knights of
Santiago were buried here and several tombs of some of these knight-protectors
of the Way can still be seen today.