This section - starting 1,300 metres above sea level and ending at 480m - appears easy but that is not the case. The ups and downs of Galicia are not what they seem and many of the trails and corredoiras (paths) conceal steep slopes.

The village of O Cebreiro affords a wonderful view of the Galician countryside. The saw-toothed ridges to the north stand in contrast to the curved shapes of those to the south. Behind us lie the rich and fertile Bierzo and the Valcarce valley, and to the west, a sharply defined ridge points the way to the giddying descent to Sarria.

From here on the pilgrim passes through village after village; so many in fact that it’s easy to lose your bearings and to know which village you’re actually in. Fortunately, the friendly locals are happy to clear up any confusion.

Here the route runs through stunning woods on the Atlantic coast where the branches of the centuries-old oak forests block the light and streams trickle down through the stones keeping the earth moist.